A Brief Guide to Must-See Mexico: About Rick Bayless - Rick Bayless

For a splurge, stay at La Casona (Durango 280, Col.Roma 06700 Mexico, D.F. 1-800-223-5652 in the U.S.), a hotel just outside the Zona Rosa. It’s a beautiful old house that has been converted to a hotel. Also be sure to check out the big Merced market about 10 minutes by cab from the hotel – it’s the largest market in Latin America.

For comida, the main meal of the day that is served between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., Rick recommends El Bajío (Av. Cauitláhuac N. 2709, col. Obrero Popular, Azcapotzalco, 02840, D.F. 0-11-525-341-9889 from the U.S.) outside the center of town. It’s owned by Carmen Ramírez Degollado, a gifted cook from Veracruz. This is Mexican Grandma food – utterly authentic and delicious.

For dinner, the venerable Fonda El Refugio (Liverpool 166, col. Juarez, 0-11-525-207-2732 in the U.S.) in the Zona Rosa, opened in the early 1950’s, is as dependable as ever – and it’s one of the most beautiful old-fashioned restaurants in the city. Don’t miss the mole! It’s the national dish of Mexico and you will find it in its most sophisticated forms in Mexico City.

Veracruz is called the Mediterranean of Mexico. You’ll find fish dishes, wild greens, black beans and chile sauces all over the region. Rick likes to stay in downtown Veracruz, right in the middle of the hubbub and within walking distance of the main market and the central square (where music, dancing and all kinds of merrymaking go on until the wee hours every night). Hotel Emporio (Insurgentes Veracruzanos 210, 91700, Veracruz, Ver. 0-11-29-320020 in the U.S.) is right on the wharf and offers beautiful views of the harbor (and a swimming pool to cool off from the tropical heat).

Just south of town is Mariscos Villa Rica Mocambo (Calz. Mocambo 527, 0-11-29-222113 in the U.S.), one of the best seafood restaurants in all of Mexico. Rick loves the whole grilled pompano when it’s in season, prepared “al ajillo” style – smothered in a garlic and red chile sauce.

And if you can make it further down the coast to Mandinga, a small town situated on an estuary, you’ll find a collection of great seafood restaurants in a beautiful setting. Most have local music and occasionally, local dancers. Rick is wild about El Paiso (no telephone available).

Do make a trip to the state capital of Jalapa. There is a wonderful archeological museum there as well as a first rate symphony orchestra. This is a coffee-growing region of Mexico, so you’ll find wonderful cafes with a European ambiance.

South of Mexico City, Oaxaca is a state that celebrates its indigenous cultures. This is one of the best places to find Mexican folk art and ceramics. It’s also a wonderful place to celebrate the Days of the Dead, November 1st and 2nd.

Oaxaca is also known as “the land of the seven moles". They come in all colors here from spring green to jet black.

For a special vacation stay at the Camino Real (Calle 5 de Mayo #300, 68000, Oaxaca, Oax. 1-800-722-6466 in the U.S.) – a 16th century convent converted to a hotel. Be sure to go out into the craft villages while traveling in Oaxaca. Rick recommends Teotitlan de Valle which specializes in rug weaving, and while visiting there eat at Tlamanalli a small courtyard restaurant run by the Mendoza family – some of the best cooks in Mexico. Go for comida between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m.

Yes, go for the beaches, but then travel to the interior. Go to a town called Valladolid – about halfway to the state capital of Mérida. Go to the central square and check out the restaurants. The menus are filled with Mayan words like kol and kabic, xcatic and xnipec. You’ll find classic Yucatecan dishes like Chicken in Escabeche, Longaniza (smoked sausage) and Cochinita Pibil, a whole roast pig that’s been smeared with achiote paste and roasted in a pit in the ground. Rick also recommends a group of restaurants called Los Almendros. There are several in the Yucatan peninsula (Mérida [Calle 50A No. 493, 0-11-99-285459 in the U.S.], Ticul and Cancun) and even one in Mexico City, and they are a good place to start sampling classic Yucatecan food.

In Mérida, Rick likes to stay at Casa Balam (Hotel Casa del Balam, Calle 60 No. 488, 97000, Mérida, Yuc. 1-800-624-8451 in the U.S.). It’s not only a beautiful traditional hotel, but it is within walking distance of the main square (where Sunday nights are a whir of activity and fun), the main market (like a labyrinth souk) and Alberto’s Continental (Calle 64 No. 482, 0-11-99-285367 in the U.S.), a restaurant featuring Yucatecan food right alongside specialties from the area’s enormous Lebanese community. RB