Tortilla Soup

Servings: 6  to 7 cups, serving 4 to 6
This classic recipe—a clear reflection of my time living in Mexico City—is based on the one in my first cookbook, Authentic Mexican, and the version we have served at Frontera Grill from opening day on. The depth and richness of the broth is what everyone comments on.  The lively garnishes–crunchy tortillas, rich crema and cheese, creamy avocado, bold chile–have kept them engaged all these years. If you don’t have cooked chicken, add 8 ounces of raw boneless chicken breast (cut into ½-inch pieces) to the simmering soup about 10 minutes before serving.

INGREDIENTS

  • 3 tablespoons fresh-rendered pork lard or oil, divided use
  • 1 medium (6 ounce) onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 2 large (1 ounce total) dried pasilla negro chiles
  • 1/2 15 ounce can diced tomatoes (preferably fire-roasted)
  • 1 1/2 quarts good chicken broth
  • A couple sprigs Epazote (if available)
  • Salt
  • 6 corn tortillas (preferably store-bought ones that are good for frying), cut into strips a little smaller than ¼ inch
  • Oil to a depth of at least ½ inch in a small skillet
  • About 1/2 cup Mexican crema or crème fraiche (sour cream will curdle here)
  • 8 ounces (about 2 cups) shredded Mexican melting cheese (like Chihuahua, asadero or quesadilla) or Monterey jack, colby or mild cheddar
  • 1 large ripe avocado, pit removed, flesh scooped from the skin and cut into ½-inch pieces
  • 8 ounces cooked chicken (a rotisserie chicken would be my suggestion) pulled into very coarse shreds (you’ll have about 2 cups)
  • A lime, cut into 6 wedges

INSTRUCTIONS

Make the soup base. In a large (4-quart) saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the lard or oil over medium-high. When hot, add the onion and whole garlic. Cook, stirring regularly, until richly golden and soft, 8 to 10 minutes.  While the onions are cooking, stem and seed 1 of the pasilla chiles. With scissors or a knife, cut it into about ½-inch pieces. Lift the chile pieces, let the seeds fall away and discard. A minute or so before the onions are ready, add the chile pieces to the pan and let them toast, stirring very frequently, until they change color slightly and are aromatic. Scrape the mixture into a blender jar (no need to wash the pan) and add the tomatoes. Blend until very smooth.

 

Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the last tablespoon of lard or oil. When hot, scrape in the onion-tomato mixture. Stir continually until noticeably thicker and darker, the consistency of tomato paste, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the broth and add the epazote. When the broth comes to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer. Partially cover and simmer for about ½ hour. Taste and season with salt (the amount will depend on the saltiness of your broth). Remove the epazote sprig.

 

The garnishes. While the broth is simmering, heat the oil in a small (8-inch) skillet over medium-high. With this amount of oil, it is difficult to get an accurate read on a thermometer, but aim for the oil to shimmer across the surface, 350 to 360 degrees. A handful at a time, fry the tortilla strips, stirring them frequently, until most bubbling has stopped and the strips are crisp and deep-golden. Use tongs or a spider to scoop them onto a plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Lay the second whole pasilla chile into the oil and turn it for 30 seconds or so as it toasts and crisps (be careful not to leave it too long or it will burn to bitterness). Drain along with the tortilla strips.

 

Set out the crema, shredded cheese and diced avocado. Crumble the cooled chile between your fingers into very coarse “flakes.”

 

Serve. Divide the garnishes between warm soup bowls: first crema, followed by shredded cheese and avocado. When you’re ready to ladle up the soup, add the chicken to the pot.  When the soup returns to a simmer, ladle it into the bowls and top with a handful of the crispy tortilla strips and crumbled chile. Put a wedge of lime on the side of each bowl and you’re ready for a treat.